Professional Alloy Wheel Welding in Manchester

Alloy wheels are made from cast aluminium alloys that are strong but brittle under impact. When you hit a pothole, kerb, or debris at speed, the sudden force can fracture the metal. The result is a crack — often invisible from the outside but weeping air through the inner barrel. A cracked wheel is dangerous because the fracture can propagate and the wheel can fail catastrophically. Professional TIG welding, executed correctly, restores structural integrity and saves you the cost of a new wheel.

At O&A Tyres, we specialise in structural alloy wheel welding using AC/DC TIG equipment. Our technicians are trained in the precise techniques required for aluminium alloy repair — stop-drilling, V-groove preparation, and multi-pass welding with matching filler rods. We serve customers across Manchester and the surrounding areas, offering both workshop-based and mobile services.

TIG Welding vs MIG Welding — Why It Matters

MIG welding applies too much heat too quickly, creating a brittle, porous weld that does not fuse properly to the parent aluminium. The heat-affected zone becomes weak and prone to cracking again within weeks. TIG welding (Tungsten Inert Gas) uses a tungsten electrode to generate precise, controlled heat. The welder can adjust amperage in real time, ensuring deep penetration without overheating the surrounding metal. For alloy wheels, AC (Alternating Current) TIG welding is essential to break through the aluminium oxide layer. We use AC/DC TIG at 150+ Amps with 1.5mm–2mm aluminium-magnesium filler rods that match OEM tensile strengths.

What Cracks Can Be Safely Welded?

Safe to weld: Inner rim barrel cracks (the most common), rim lip cracks, and some face cracks that are not on structural load-bearing sections. Cracks under 2 inches in length are generally straightforward. Longer cracks require multi-pass welding but are still repairable if the wheel is not extensively fatigued.

Not safe to weld: Spoke cracks, central hub mounting face cracks, multiple cracks on the same wheel, and any crack that runs through a high-stress structural point. In these cases, the wheel is structurally compromised and cannot be restored to a safe condition. We will tell you honestly if replacement is the only option — safety always comes first.

The Step-by-Step Welding Process

A structural weld is not a single action — it is a sequence of precise steps. First, we remove the tyre and perform a dye penetrant test to map the crack. This reveals the exact length and direction of the fracture, including invisible micro-fractures. Second, we stop-drill the crack termination point — a relief hole that prevents the crack from propagating under thermal stress during welding. Third, we grind a deep V-groove along the crack line, removing all paint, lacquer, and oxide to expose clean aluminium. Fourth, we pre-heat the surrounding zone to prevent the alloy from acting as a massive heat sink. Fifth, we perform AC/DC TIG welding from both the inside and outside of the barrel, laying down structural passes with matching filler material. Finally, we grind the weld flush, pressure test at full PSI, and balance the wheel.

Cost Comparison — Weld vs New Wheel

A new OEM alloy wheel for most cars costs £300–£600. For premium brands (BMW, Mercedes, Audi, Porsche), a single wheel can cost £800–£1,200 or more. Aftermarket replicas may be cheaper but often have different offset and load ratings. Our welding service starts from £50 for a small crack — a fraction of the cost. You retain your original wheels, maintain your vehicle’s value, and get back on the road the same day.

After Welding — Cosmetic Refinishing Options

Welding generates localised heat that discolours or scorches the surrounding finish. If the crack is on the inner barrel, this is invisible once the tyre is fitted. If the crack extends to the outer face, we recommend a full cosmetic refurbishment after welding. We offer powder coating and diamond-cut refinishing services that restore the wheel to factory condition.